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Developing the Waterfowlerby George Hickox
The polished waterfowling dog is a master of its trade. Whether waiting patiently with impeccable manners until the arrival of the next flock of greenheads or leaving a wake when zeroing-in on a downed cripple, a trained retriever sends a shiver of admiration through any hunter.
It is pure joy to watch a high-caliber duck and goose dog. A fully trained 'fowler is line-steady and alertly sits in the blind or boat until given instructions to propel itself into the water. After putting forth a Herculean effort chasing down a cripple, the steadfast retriever brings back the prize, sits by its handler's side and awaits the command to gently release the bird into its master's hand-all without damaging the bird in any way.
In addition to demonstrating manners that would make Emily Post proud, a waterfowl hunting dog is expected to complete blind retrieves with exacting precision. Trusting its handler completely, the dog follows hand and whistle commands to the area of a downed bird. Although the dog never saw the fall, it is expected to use the tools Mother Nature and hours of training gave it to produce the prize.
Any aficionado of waterfowl hunting drools over images of hand-crafted decoys, finely tuned calls and expertly honed waterdogs. Unfortunately, far too many dreamers never put themselves in that perfect picture. The goal of developing a top-notch duck or goose dog often falls short.
Before a dog can master double or triple blind retrieves, it must have a sound foundation in the basics. Rushing the young student often leads to apprehension and confusion on the dog's part and frustration on the owner's. By the same token, waiting for the dog "to get old enough to train" is a path fraught with roadblocks. The first eight to 10 months of a pup's life are critical to preparing the dog for more-advanced schooling.
As I've emphasize before, it takes proper genetics, training and nutrition for a working dog to achieve excellence. If a dog is not blessed with the desire, drive and physical attributes required of a hard-core waterfowl hunting dog, the owner should never expect greatness and should limit the dog to less-demanding duties. A willingness to learn and the ability to be trained are also prerequisites. An enthusiastic dog that can overcome obstacles and progress will be a lot more rewarding to develop . . . and a heck of a lot more fun. Remember that it is supposed to be fun to train your dog. Trying to train a genetically inferior dog will give a new definition to the word "work."
Many genetically gifted dogs can prove to be difficult students, but the fault usually lies with the trainers. If a pup remains isolated during the critical first few months following whelping, trainers will never be able to bring out that dog's full potential. At the other extreme, rushing a dog in an attempt to produce the youngest retriever ever is also a mistake.
Following is a fundamental guide for developing a good retriever. Keep in mind that I believe that the conditioned, or forced, retrieve is the foundation for advanced work. Teaching the forced retrieve, proper marking, taking straight lines, and whistle and hand signals requires an enthusiastic student with a good attitude. Recognizing that there are exceptions to many rules, I recommend teaching the forced retrieve when the dog is roughly eight to 10 months old. Again, I believe the forced retrieve is the foundation for developing the complete waterfowl hunting dog capable of performing stellar retrieves and exhibiting total cooperation.
As for the fundamental "dos and don'ts" during the pup's first eight to 10 months, it is foremost important to monitor the pup's health. Remember that you are training an athlete. Always make sure that there is fresh water available, and keep vaccines up to date. Don't forget the heartworm preventative, and administer Frontline as a first-line defense against tick -borne diseases. A healthy pup will be much better able to handle the stresses of new environments and situations. As a trainer, one of your most important objectives is to develop trust in your student. A dog's confusion or apprehension is often created by a lack of trust. If a dog does not understand why it is being corrected, it likely will become unsure of itself and its trainer. You need to respect your dog and look at things' from its perspective. Never expect a dog to perform anything it hasn't been taught to do. You must first show the youngster what you eventually expect of it-and in so doing become a trusted mentor, not a harsh disciplinarian
The other day at the vet's office I observed a lady talking to her dog. "Sit," she commanded. The dog did not respond. "Put your rear down." Still no response. "Hey, I am not going to tell you again!" The woman then slapped the dog on top of the head. The dog still did not sit, but it did immediately tuck its tail, roll over on its back and pee all over its belly. The dog had no idea why it had been hit. Naturally, this dog was apprehensive and confused.
Never correct out of anger. Try to communicate to your dog what it is that you want it to do. Give ample "show-pup" examples (leading the dog through the exercise in an upbeat manner) and always reward an effort. Make absolutely sure the dog understands the command before beginning correction.
It is important to be consistent with commands. Don't sometimes command "Here" and other times "Come." Also have realistic expectations. If your dog does not sit under control at home, it is unlikely to sit in the boat or blind.
Simplify every task by taking the building-block approach. If you try to have your dog perform a double mark before it can successfully retrieve single falls, the dog will fail and become confused. Additionally, if you correct the dog every time it makes a mistake, a fear of failure may result. Fear of failure does not develop a bold, confident dog, and the dog may quit trying. A good approach is to correct the dog only for lack of effort or flagrant disobedience of a command that it has thoroughly learned. This is particularly true in the case of retrieving exercises or drills involving birds. If you consistently adhere to these principles, early training should go well. A genetically gifted dog + consistent standards + praise = a good attitude.
Now that I have gone over the fundamentals of basic training, I want to look at early yard training and the development of the retrieving instinct. The first three months of the pup's development should center on socializing the dog. Pups that are not well socialized by six months will forever be backward. In the first eight months it is beneficial to have introduced your pup to water, birds and gunfire. Of course, this doesn't mean throwing a shackled duck into chilly water to see how the pup does with it. I hate the whole "let's-see-what-happens-if' approach. If a dog becomes scared of water, birds or guns, this often could have been prevented.
It's also important to instill a strong retrieving instinct in your dog during this time. If the pup is a year old before it learns to retrieve, work will progress much more slowly. The key to developing the retrieving instinct is to start with short, easy retrieves when the pup is 10 to 16 weeks old. Don't overdo it, either. The trick is to leave the pup always wanting more. Make retrieving fun and upbeat. Limit the number of retrieves to two or three per session, and limit your sessions to one every other day.
By doing retrieving exercises in a hallway or narrow fenced area, the pup will be less likely to run away with its prize. Get down on your knees or lay on your back to encourage the pup to bring the retrieved object to you. Praise the pup only when it has returned to you with the object it was sent after.
All advanced training like blind retrieves, line steadiness, line manners and multiple marks build on yardwork. By yardwork, I mean the teaching of "Here," "Heel" and, most important, the fundamental command "Sit." I recommend encouraging basic obedience to these commands when the dog is five to six months old. And "Sit," "Here" and "Heel" should be taught in that order.
Some people teach the commands "Sit" and "Stay," but I believe "Stay" is superfluous. "Sit" means to remain sitting in one place until released. "Sit" includes "Stay." It will be easier for the dog to grasp the concept of sitting in one place until released if it hasn't already been taught to come with you every time you walk away.
Teaching "Hold" is the first step in preparation for teaching the forced retrieve. At Grouse Wing Kennel, we will have taught basic obedience and developed a strong retrieving instinct in the dog before teaching "Hold." We will have fully collar-conditioned the dog as well.
To teach "Hold" we use an eight- to 10-inch wooden dowel wrapped in clothesline. We teach "Hold" during a period of one to three weeks rather than trying to force the issue in one session. First, we place the dowel in the dog's mouth and hold the dog's jaws closed gently while repeating, "Hold, Hold, Hold." Initially, when the dog holds the dowel even for a couple of seconds, I reward it with praise and immediately take the dowel out of its mouth. Praise the dog when it is holding the dowel, not when the dog drops it or you take it out of its mouth. Be patient. Remember that you are a trusted mentor. It will help if you start off with the dog sitting on a table, where it will feel that it is more under your control.
Once the dog has completed basic obedience, collar-conditioning, initial retrieving and will hold the dowel while in your control, it is ready to be force-fetched. You and the dog are now well on your way to success.
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